Home' InDaily : August 6th 2010 Contents August 6 - 12, 2010
The Independent Weekly
Ann Oliver firstname.lastname@example.org
Fresh from the oven
If you don't own a book about bread and yeast, buy yourself a
copy of Jim Lahey's book, My Bread (about $40 at Imprints). Unlike
many American books, it does have weights and measures in
metric, which is a big bonus. Try Jim's pizza -- it's fab! Potato and
fennel is perfect for this time of year.
If we make his ciabatta and know the vultures will eat it in a
single sitting, we use strong flour. If we want to use it over three
to four days, we use baker's flour, which gives it a softer, moister
texture for a longer period. Made with strong flour it is pretty much
only good for toast on the second day.
Small quantities of quality organic flours can be purchased from
Goodies and Grains at Adelaide Central Market. We have great
local millers -- Lauke (Strathalbyn) and Four Leaf Organics (Tarlee),
to name just two. With imported flour, it is virtually impossible to
find out any information about its composition and to write proper
recipes using it.
Anyone with information about local rye flours, especially
organic, please send me the information so I can follow it up and
include the information on the Galaxy Guides website.
Makes 3 small baguette-style loaves, or one large loaf
700g organic rye flour and extra for dusting
100g baker's flour
½ teaspoon caraway seeds
10g fine sea salt
5g dry yeast
Mix together the flours, caraway seeds, salt and yeast, then add
the water. Cover with plastic and leave in a cool place for about 20
hours in cold weather or about 10 hours in summertime. This is
one of those tricky loaves where it is very easy to think you have
done something wrong because it barely rises at all until the last
couple of hours of proving.
Scrape the dough on to a lightly floured surface and knead by
rolling it under itself until you have a ball; put it in a freezer bag
and set a timer for one hour. Shape your dough into three loaves
or a single loaf. If you're planning sandwiches, keep your loaves
evenly thick and don't taper the ends.
In this vile weather, pre-heat your oven to 80C, turn off the heat,
spray the oven with cold water, put in the bread and set a timer for
30 minutes. When the timer goes, remove the bread. By this time
you should finally start to see a small movement in the bread. Turn
the oven to 220C and set a timer for 30 minutes.
Bake the small loaves for 30 minutes and the single loaf for 45
minutes to 1 hour. Cool standing on a rack.
This bread is dense and moist. While we've never managed to
keep it long, it is still wonderful on the third day. It's fantastic for
canapés, or get a heap of brownie points by asking your mates
over for lunch and serving them smoked salmon and horseradish-
Keeps very well stored in the fridge in an airtight container.
This recipe does not work with thickened cream.
500ml/g rich/pure cream (organic shops and specialty food
100g Vine Valley white wine vinegar
3g fine sea salt
50g peeled weight, finely grated fresh horseradish (usually
available at Wilson's Organics, Gouger Street, Adelaide)
Black pepper, freshly and coarsely ground
Mix the cream, vinegar and salt together. Put it into a glass
container, cover and sit at room temperature for about two days.
By the second day you will see a small separation of clear liquid at
the bottom and the cream with have become very thick. We usually
make a double quantity because it keeps so well and this takes
about four days.
Remove the thick soured cream and mix it with the horseradish
and pepper. Store in an airtight container in the fridge.
Herbed cream cheese
250g Philadelphia cream cheese or loose Neufchatel cheese
(at room temperature)
20g sweet paprika
20g wholegrain Dijon mustard
50g melted unsalted butter
¼ teaspoon caraway seeds, coarsely crushed
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
Black pepper, freshly ground
Fresh chopped herbs, parsley, dill and chervil are great
In a food processor with the mixing blade, whip the cheese until
it is smooth. Add everything except the herbs and combine
thoroughly, then fold through the herbs. Keeps well refrigerated.
Start with rye bread with
fresh, unsalted butter
(Paris Creek is great).
lettuce, finely sliced raw
red onion, horseradish
Fine Foods) and pickled
Fine Foods) and finely
sliced cornichons or sour
there's nothing better
than rye slathered with a
herbed cream cheese.
Sometimes the memory of a taste or smell
can drive you crazy. For me, regardless
of the effort and time I have given to
re-creating it, the smell of the dark rye loaf
still warm from the baker s oven in Austria
has been as elusive as the ultimate scent
sought by Grenouille in Patrick Suskind s
Place and company can play a big part in
the memory of food. A great chef s cooking
can be soured by a dull dining companion and
will never be as memorable as a meal shared
with happy friends intent on enjoying however
much or little is offered.
It wasn t just the still-warm bread, the
occasional crunch of a caraway seed, or the
wonderful taste and texture of the Austrian
loaf that made it so special. It was the pride
with which it was sold, the delight in our
recognition of the baker s skill, and the sweet,
fresh, unsalted butter wrapped in a simple piece
of creamy, translucent waxed paper. That bread
is a memory complicated by a lot of additional
pleasures that are impossible to recreate.
In recent months, New York baker Jim
Lahey s fantastic book, My Bread, has reinvig-
orated my passion for making bread as I have
worked my way through many of his recipes.
Jim s pizza dough recipe is so good I haven t
made my own recipe for months. We love the
thin, crispy, potato and onion or winter fennel
pizza and can t wait for some decent home-
grown, vine-ripened tomatoes and basil grown
in full sun to make a simple margherita pizza
using his base.
In search of my elusive memory, I tried Jim s
rye bread. It was good -- in fact, very good -- but
not dense or dark enough. So it was back to the
This recipe is close; it s not black enough, but
good enough to want to make again and again.
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