Home' InDaily : July 16th 2010 Contents www.independentweekly.com.au
Apart from the rain, the only
good thing about winter is
comfort food, especially winter
These can be as simple as sweet
carrots, steamed or boiled with
masses of chopped parsley, butter,
salt and pepper tossed through, or
you can go one step further and put
them in a light b chamel. Add some
corned beef or grilled fish and it
will be gorgeous.
Cabbage and fennel are fantastic
in b chamel, and both are at their
local best this time of the year.
Boiled cabbage has had a terrible
reputation, but it is really terrific
just lightly cooked and well-
drained with butter, salt, pepper
and a little white wine vinegar
Everyone loves roast vegetables
and you need to make plenty
because people always want
Anything left over (if you re
lucky) can be put into a light stock
the next day, pureed and turned
into a good soup. For roasting, I love
the Silpat brand of silicone baking
They are so much more envi-
ronmentally friendly than using
screeds of baking parchment and,
as proof of their longevity, some
of mine are at least eight years
Rewarmed mash is a pet hate
unless it is fried in screeds of butter
until it is crunchy and brown,
and served as bubble and squeak.
Leftover mash can be vacced
or frozen and is very handy for
thickening instant soups of the
very best kind.
If you are lucky enough to have
a Thermomix or MyCook, you can
put all your leftover cooked veg into
it, add some stock, heat through and
puree. Or you can put everything in
a saucepan, heat through and puree
with a stick mixer.
Pumpkin soup has to be the most
denigrated of all soups, but if the
pumpkin is roasted with extra-
virgin olive oil, seasoned well and
roasted, then added to chicken or
vegetable stock, it is still one of the
We also make a nice version
embellished with African Berbere
spices and served with a garnish of
crushed roasted peanuts.
We have been doing a lot of
experimentation with cooking
vegetables sous-vide and have been
working with two types of slow
cookers to try to achieve similar
results to the commercial sous-vide
Where there is only one oven,
being able to cook the veg sous-vide,
set a time and forget about them has
Hopefully, it won t be too long
before electrical appliance compa-
nies make temperature-controlled
slow cookers with rapid heat recov-
ery for the domestic market, then
I ll be able to share these techniques
with the broader public.
At the moment, I m finding
big differences between the low
temperatures of two brands of
slow cookers, which makes it
exceedingly hard to write accurate
Last but not least, brussel sprouts
are back in fashion -- not that
they were ever out with us. They
are heaven blanched and tossed
through extra-virgin olive oil or
butter, or a mixture of both, with
salt, pepper, lemon juice and freshly
The smaller the better, and
always cross-score the stem end
because this helps them to cook
Silpat silicone mats are available
in Adelaide from Ecotel Restaurant
Essentials, 45 Gilbert Street,
Adelaide, or phone 8410 3633.
July 16 - 22, 2010
The Independent Weekly
Ann Oliver email@example.com
Winter vegetables make
the best comfort food
Everyone ends up with odds and
sods of vegetables left in the fridge,
and this savoury crumble is a great
way of serving them.
Just remember when you are
cooking the vegetables to put them
in to cook in the proper progression
-- i.e. the veg that take the longest to
cook should go in first.
If you are adding peas or similar
veg that will cook rapidly, add them
when you have taken the vegetables
off of the heat. The parmesan
crumble can be made entirely in
The vegetables can be blanched
and put into b chamel, then covered
with the crumble topping. Or saut e
them with a little stock or cream,
then cover with the crumble topping.
Done with the b chamel and
served with a green salad, this
makes a very easy and tasty winter
When we first wrote about this
excellent product in 2007, it was
quite difficult to find.
It is great to see that a really
good product has now found wide
Compared to making your own
stock, it is expensive, but when
you re time-poor this is the only
The other advantage is that it
is in a Tetra Pak and requires no
refrigeration (or thawing).
Moredough Kitchens chicken,
veal, beef and vegetable stocks are
100 per cent natural, gluten and
preservative-free, and cost around $7
This vacs well, or can be keep for about two weeks in an
airtight container. It is very handy to have in the fridge
300g/600g strong flour
200g/400g finely grated parmesan pecorino
Black pepper, freshly ground
Handful of herbs, stalked and roughly chopped
150g/300g salted butter
Put the flour, cheese and pepper in a food processor and
mix on pulse with the motor running, then add the butter
down the feed tube. Use as required.
Pre-heat oven to 175C. Scatter some of the fine crumbs
over the vegetables and cover the top with big lumps made
by firmly pressing the mixture together. Cook until golden.
The parmesan pecorino cheese mix is available from most
Continental stores. It is quite salty, so if you use salted
butter there will be sufficient seasoning; if you are using
unsalted butter, add a little sea salt.
Using up the odds and sods
Good for carrots, young parsnips and turnips
EV olive oil, melted butter or ghee (go easy on the salt if using ghee)
Honey (molten in the microwave or on stovetop)
Maldon sea salt
Black pepper, freshly ground
Peeled (if they need it) and prepared vegetables
Pre-heat oven to 200C. Put on a large pot of water, add a generous amount of salt
and bring it to the boil. In the meantime, put a little honey and butter in a stainless-
steel bowl and sit it over the pot.
When the water comes to the boil, blanche the vegetables for about three minutes
or until the tip of a butter knife will go into them for about 2mm without resistance.
Drain and add to the butter and honey, season well with salt and pepper, and toss
over. Cover a lipped baking sheet with a silicone mat or baking paper, and slide the
vegetables onto it.
Cook for 30 minutes, turn over and cook for another 30 minutes (longer if they are
not cooked). They should be nicely caramelised. Pick up the mat/paper and slide
them onto a warmed ser ving plate, then serve.
Roast potatoes can be done in the same way but if you can manage the last 30
minutes at 220C they will have more crunch.
Links Archive July 15th 2010 July 19th 2010 Navigation Previous Page Next Page